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The Afternoon That I Spent at a Cemetery in the City

Death Practice (1)


By Lee Gyeong-sin
Published: October, 15, 2012
Translated by Lee Mi-kyeong

Editor’s note: This article is the start of a new series about “Death Practice” by Lee Gyeong-sin, who wrote the “Library Outing,” and “Philosophy in Daily Life” series for Ilda. Now she is exploring the possibility of good death in a medically-advanced society, and wants to share her ideas about what is aging well and dying well with Ilda’s readers.

The cemetery we visited in Paris © Lee Gyeong-sin
It was the day when I went to Emmaus to buy dishware cheaply. It was an afternoon full of the happiness of a trivial thing in daily life, since I had gotten it for cheaper prices than the low-quality new dishes at supermarkets or old ones at flea markets. That afternoon, I visited a nearby cemetery with my friend.

The cemetery, along with large stores, was at the edge of the city. Unlike those shops where numbers of people looking for cheap or used things - or those who want to buy things as cheaply as they could - kept coming and going, the cemetery, with its few visitors, was surreally quiet. It even felt off-limits to living people, as we could not find any traces of living humans except for us.

Ancient Rome is said to have built cemeteries close to places where many people gathered together so that people would not be scared at death, would get accustomed to it and yet would not forget the fact that they are mortal. Although the cemetery serving where I stay now is a little out of the downtown area, it takes less 15 minutes from the center of the city by bus. However, people here seem to live oblivious to the existence of the cemetery. As long as people close to them are not buried there, few people visit. For urban people who live thinking they are immortal, cemeteries have been reduced to space that exists but does not exist.

Where is a grave of a woman saint?

At the entrance of the cemetery, the graves, which are neatly arranged as those in other cities of France, came into view. French graves are quite different from Korean ones, whose round burial mounds are covered with grass. Near each well-finished quadrangle tomb is a large cross. Some tombstones include a photo of the dead. The photo shows that the dead person once was a living one like us. While moss thrives at the graves forgotten by living people, beautiful flowers of various colors bloom at the graves of those still alive in the memories of living people.

My friend ahead of me set upright, one by one, flowerpots that had been scattered around tombs. They might have been knocked down by rain and wind the day before. We finally found a bench from which the water had been drained. We sat down and ate the lunch we had brought. We wondered where on earth the tomb of the woman saint with bags hung on it was.

A woman who had departed this earth hundreds of years ago became a saint after she died. It is the belief that if people put the earth around her grave into a bag and wore it, they would be cured of their sickness that made her a saint. The believe-it-or-not story led even us to this cemetery. My friend took me by the hand into this place saying that she would fill a bag with the miraculous earth and put it around my neck for the sake of my unreliable health. The myth seemed groundless, and we did not have any reliable information. We had nothing but the vague thought that because the earth bags people returned to the woman saint are hanging from the cross around her tomb, we would immediately be able to see it, even from a distance.

In fact, this is not my first time visiting the strange cemetery where no one close to me is buried. The first time was a long time ago, when I was staying in Paris to learn French. The cemetery, which is introduced in travel brochures and has the graves of famous people, happened to be near the school I went to. It evoked my curiosity to know that so near me were the graves of famous people such as Sartre, Beauvoir and Baudelaire, whose deaths made it impossible to meet them in person. One day I visited there after class.

My visit was made to find traces of famous people, but before I knew it, I was just strolling about through graves of people unknown to me while slowly looking around. I was walking slowly as if I were taking a walk in the park. I walked, and then caught my breath on a bench a while, and would quietly feel the dead people surrounding me, the invisible presences. The cemetery was like an island of silent sanctuary in the middle of a bustling city. The dead did not speak. But it was the peaceful silence that made merealize I was welcome there.

After that day, I had gone to the cemetery whenever I had time. Some days I walked around in awe and other days I came back after reading a book for quite a long time. And when I found cemeteries in other cities or villages, I visited and rested there. To me, cemeteries were no longer dreadful places, haunted by ghosts or sprits as pictured in horror novels or films. Rather, they became a space of rest in which I can escape the bustle of life for a while in the silence of the dead.

Babies’ small graves

Small graves for young children © Lee Gyeong-sin
We slowly walked through the graves, looking around. My friend continued to stop to stand upright fallen flowerpots. Each time, I stopped as well and looked around. Big pine trees standing in a row looked like giants protecting the graves. While crossing the wide cemetery, we could not see any sign of the cross with bags. I did not care. So what if we do not find a woman saint’s grave? I was happy just to have a relaxing time in the quiet. But my friend strode out before me saying she would not fail to find the grave.  

As we continued to search, small graves appeared. What on earth kind of graves are so small? Examining them, we found out that they were the resting place for babies who left this world after a brief stay. Later we learned that it was not long before that making babies’ graves had been legally allowed in France. For the parents who had only a short relationship with their baby, these graves are never too small to help ease their sorrow.

How long did we walk? The saint’s grave was nowhere to be found. I picked up pine cones and consoled my discouraged friend. “If her grave is somewhere around here, the pine cones from these trees for which her body acts as fertilizer are likely to be as effective as the earth around her grave.” And I put three pine cones into the bag filled with dishes. I am not sure that my friend was convinced. 

It flashed through my mind that the dead save the living not only by the earth around a woman saint’s grave. Isn’t it our lives as humans that the dead return to earth and the living sustain their lives by plowing the earth? The story of the dead, who save living people, may be to tell about the relationship between the two.

If so, graves are the right place to reflect on the encounters and connection between the dead and the living. Because graves are where people not only lay their body when they die, but also a place where the living accept the deaths of those close to them into their life and melt their sorrow, while considering seriously that they themselves must someday set out on the journey into the afterlife. In addition, walking around graves, we clearly face the fact that we not only must die “someday” but also can die anytime.

Following after my friend who proposed walking a little longer unwilling to quit, I walked through graves for a while longer. The whole time, however, there was no one who was visiting there except for us. When we arrived at the bus stop in front of the cemetery, all of sudden it began to rain. We felt pleased that we were fortunate enough to have avoided. On the bus, we recalled that we had bought good dishware cheaply, and got back into the happiness of everyday life.

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